At Milan Fashion Week on Sunday, Giorgio Armani showcased his latest collection for his main line, featuring blooming florals that adorned winter outfits and accessories. The seasoned Italian designer, at 86 years old, presented a range of styles, including black velvet dresses, printed suits, and trousers highlighted with vibrant flashes of hot pink and purple. There were also a few dresses with embroidery, lace, and ruched tuxedos. The look was a departure from the dark, romantic gowns and suits that have become his signature, which he has cited as a reaction to the upheavals of society.
Gina di Bernardo, a model who has appeared in many of Aldo Fallai’s defining 1980s campaigns, opened the show with a paneled shades-of-gray overcoat and pleated silvery separates paired with a fedora or flats decorated with winter flower illustrations, after which the collection was named. Loose velvet combats and softly tailored herringbones were among the panoply of pants worn over oversized outerwear, accented with collar and fastening details influenced by Asian dress motifs. Silk satin jodhpurs matched loosely belted jackets, and a play on shiny and matte was evident throughout, including with the new model of the La Prima beret and its beaded fringes that danced like sparkling hairstyles on the heads of some models.
Despite the COVID-19 restrictions that have led to a virtual Milan Fashion Week with designers broadcasting their shows on digital platforms, Armani kept his runway show on its schedule and opened it with fluid looks in light grey and brown – jackets and trousers, accessorized with floral blue scarves or sashes. These looked to reference the designer’s recent visit to China, where he celebrated the 20th anniversary of his collaboration with Chinese designer Yang Mi.
The rest of the autumn/winter 2024 womenswear show, “Winter Flowers,” focused on flowing and flattering silhouettes, combining nature-inspired designs with the designer’s appreciation for Asian culture. A dragonfly motif was woven into the fabric of an overcoat, while a field of flowers adorned a skirt and a cocktail dress. There were a few velvet evening gowns, and the closing looks featured a panoply of fabrics from suede to silk, with long dresses over trousers or gilets matched with obi belts.
A black velvet gown was topped with an embroidered flower, and another had a dragonfly design on the chest. A dark velvet dress was cut with asymmetric buttons, and a black and lilac evening gown sparkled sequentially. The show ended with a couple of short films that featured young couples and highlighted the designer’s stance on gay marriage, which he had previously been vocal about supporting. The emcee, actor Marcello Mascia, said the show aimed to convey a message of peace and love. He also congratulated the cast and crew of the show, adding: “Thank you to everyone.” Milan Fashion Week concludes on Saturday with another main-line show from Versace.